You’ve read about them in all the women’s magazines. You’ve seen them in retailers as diverse as Bloomingdale’s and Sephora too. Independent cosmetic companies are the hottest brands in the industry. This past year, big names such as Estée Lauder, LVMH and Shiseido have snatched up indies to diversify their brand offerings and gain consumers they would have ordinarily missed. Most indies were started to speak to young women with their offbeat packaging and products shades, but today these trendy cosmetics are attracting women both young and old with their funky designs.

How do these brands do it? Innovation is the key to indie success. And to stay in the lead, packaging is revamped and new products are introduced often. Ironically, many indies don’t mind sharing the same silvery-black combinations that house many of these products, though distinction works more in their favor, according to Jerome Berard of Berard and Associates. “I push my clients to design lines that are atypical product mixtures which is perfect for the category,” said Mr. Berard. “It is the end of contemporary clean shapes and on to strong signature colors.”

wild child
Bright colors and un-politically correct ideas define Scarlett Cosmetics, New Hope, PA. The brand’s wild designs give an added edge in the indie industry. What started off as a line for makeup artists has boomed in the trendy category. Products are in demand and often out of stock, according to owner Scarlett Messina.
“Because Scarlett is independent, I need to have something that stands out,” explained founder Ms. Messina. “I got into packaging extensively. It’s very creative. There is a theme in each line, including the packaging, which is very expensive.

Scarlett ‘s new fall color cosmetics collection is called Centerfold.

The new Scarlett became known for wild packaging in addition to less intimidating formulations. The names tell you what the products are for. For example, Bedroom Eyes are for the eyes.” Two seasons ago, Scarlett sold a casino line with stacked dice lipstick. Last season’s Beauty-A-Bowl line focused on bowling inspired by trends from the 1950s and 1960s with bowling ball-shaped blush and eyeshadow packages and bowling pin lipstick with names such as Dot and Flossie.

“Women open up their handbags and repair their makeup in public. What’s better than pulling out a big bowling ball pin?” asked Ms. Messina. Centerfold, Scarlett’s fall collection, awakens the pin-up girl inside every woman, according to company ads. Boudoir blush features shades such as Coquette (mocha pink) and Bon-Bon (pink plum). “The whole idea behind the line is very un-PC beauty,” said Ms. Messina, “from glossy, wet lip colors to false eyelashes.”

The Centerfold line uses designs that are reminiscent of classic cosmetic packaging. The fake eyelashes have similar case packaging to the 1960s and 1970s. Cake eyeliner, which mainly survives in makeup artists’ bags, is revived in the Centerfold collection for the average consumer. But package shape is not the first thing on Ms. Messina’s mind.

“First and foremost, customers are looking for color and formulation,” said Ms. Messina. “Weight and substance are also important. No one wants a flimsy package, especially if they are paying a good amount for it. We have gone from the minimalist M.A.C. package of a decade ago to more elaborate containers today.”
Delux Beauty entered the color cosmetics market through the nail polish category and soon became known for its retro look and feel. This success has allowed the NY-based company to extend its range. In August, Delux Beauty launched seven new products (lipstick, lip gloss, high gloss, Tintstik, lip balm, Flush stick, Glistener shimmer gel) to give the line a more modern feel while incorporating the company’s subtle retro look .

Delux Beauty is changing its image with sophisticated champagne and black colors.

Company president Kristin Fink Mason and her sister and business partner, Jillian Fink Dempsey, scoured the globe for stock packaging that was unique in appearance and substantial in weight and feel. The lipstick caps had to snap when closed, and the blusher containers needed to be large and heavy. The sisters went as far as Cosmoprof Asia to source many of the packaging components.

“The new products are a nice way for us to move forward, but still maintain brand recognition,” said Ms. Fink Mason. “But the traditional retro feel is secondary to our new, modern packaging.” Delux is now packaged in champagne and black for an updated and sophisticated look.

“We had to make sure we chose unique packaging that just falls short of more expensive custom molds,” explained Ms. Fink Mason. “We have used consistent color and embossing to strengthen our brand’s distinction through champagne-colored metal and black.”

The newly inscripted ‘D’ logo for Delux Beauty has been placed on packages in various ways, such as embossed lipstick tops. In some instances too, the word ‘Beauty’ uses the same font as ‘Delux,’ said Ms. Fink Mason. “Another theme we are following is full-size, highly-portable products,” said Ms. Fink Mason. “The lip gloss has a shortened cap to make it pocket-friendly yet it contains the same amount of lip gloss. We want to appeal to a busy lifestyle and fit into the various events, functions and roles in a woman’s life.”

waste savers
Georgette Klinger completely redid its makeup line and salons in September. Similar to Delux Beauty, the changes not only reflect a new look, but also cater to the needs of the modern woman.
“Women are looking for dual use in products,” said Eileen Paley, senior vice president of marketing and product development, Georgette Klinger. “It is the way we live our lifestyles. There’s no time to deal with a zillion things.”

The line uses gray and silver packaging for an elegant and understated look with its new embossed signature logo, an oblong silver lily of the valley. The company is hedging away from black, taking a more popular metallic road.

“The simple approach is more who we are,”said Ms. Paley. “It’s elegant, simple and clean-looking. If our packaging was overdone, it just wouldn’t be us.” The last overhaul of the line occurred six years ago. But as the times changed, so have women’s preferences.

Georgette Kinger’s newly revamped compact has removable palettes.

“Today, women are more conscious of waste,” said Ms. Paley. “So smaller companies such as ours target things that talk more to their client base.”
Georgette Klinger individually customizes its products. The new compacts have magnetized wells to attract the backs of color palettes, allowing consumers to mix and match shades. The compacts are both designed for seasonal makeup selection and resource conservation so that unwanted shades will not go to waste, according to Ms. Paley.

“You can just pop the palettes out. It is great for seasonal choices. And the compacts are not sold in a folding carton, but rather a free bengaline silk file pouch. It is an instant carrying case that is practical, protective and less wasteful,” said Ms. Paley.

New products accompanying the new look of the line include a set of eight brushes, both thick and thin, in gray and silver, powder blush, wet/dry foundation and lipstick. Products such as the foundation give women the option of wet or dry application and the brushes provide a plethora of tools, according to company executives.

urban life
Urban Decay, founded in 1996 with cosmetic shades such as Smog and Mildew, was purchased earlier this year by LVMH. The company began when founder Sandy Lerner became frustrated with purple nail polish and decided to focus on edgier color stories. Since then, the urban brand has defined the feminist market with hints of danger and fun, according to company executives.

“There is nothing else like it out there, yet there is an element of smart, on-my-own-terms femininity to the whole line,” said Wende Zomnir, creative director, Urban De-cay. “Our packaging is urban, edgy and semi-industrial.” For example, the company uses a subway token design for concealers, manhole covers for eye shadows and shotgun shell designs for lipsticks. “Functionality is very important to us as well. I think clunky products that you can’t take with you easily are ‘out,’” said Ms. Zomnir.

Urban Decay’s edgy containers define the feminist market.

More than a year ago, Urban Decay updated its packaging from simple brown cartons to layered metallic collage boxes. This fall, Urban Decay is introducing a skin care line that retains a thread of consistency to existing lines, yet has an identity of its own, according to Ms. Zomnir. “We like to keep the line fresh,” explained Ms. Zomnir. “We have to change with the times or someone else could sneak up behind us and do it first.”

funky and feminine
BeneFit has an amazingly broad appeal, targeting women ages 14 to 60 years old, according to company executives. The huge consumer base is one reason why LVMH acquired the brand earlier this year. Part of its success is due to packaging; part of it is the humorous names owners Jane Ford and Jean Ford Danielson whip up. The three main things that attract consumers, according to BeneFit executives, are canisters, changes in packaging and quirky product names.

“Our packaging is very girly and feminine; something that you can display on your vanity, instead of throwing away once you are finished with it,” said Yvette Jirau, a spokesperson for BeneFit. The newest product Flamingo Fancy, launched in May, imports a golden coral glow on the skin with a white ginger and plumeria scent. The packaging features two flamingos on the label, a sleek clear bottle and rounded black cap. Other favorites, such as Kitten, a sparkling powder in a traditional cylindrical cardboard package and pink powder puff and Dr. Feelgood, a transparent matte balm held in a tin canister with a vintage photograph label, attract consumers instantly. And with names such as Touch Me Then Try to Leave cream, an instant connection is made. “Of course, the product delivers the best results, but they love what is pleasing to the eye,” said a graphics department executive.

Described as a “functional trend,” BeneFit aims to boost the beauty of each woman when she needs a little something to help her out or feel pretty. “We portray ‘A girl’s slumber party’ atmosphere at our stores and counters and that message is translated via our packaging which is what draws them to us,” explained Ms. Ford Danielson and Ms. Ford in a statement.

With names such as Kitten and Dr. Feel-good, BeneFit leads the way with quirky names

Though executives were hesitant to reveal future products, they said glitter will return for the holidays along with plum lipsticks. And as for what is out, BeneFit executives hesitate to criticize.
“We hate to talk about what’s not…because if you love wearing that blue eye shadow, .you go girl,” said a company spokesperson.

expanding horizons
Several independent cosmetic companies are taking different approaches to product innovation by expanding their lines. English Ideas consists of problem-solution ideas for the eyes, lips, face and, most recently, the skin. Colors such as green, pink, and blue are used to identify categories. English Ideas executives are abuzz about its new skin care line with its exceptional triangular packaging.
“Indies must customize containers,” explained Rebecca Pflueger, president and chief executive officer, English Ideas, about the company’s packaging choices.

The new Homebody skin care line includes triangular-shaped bottles housing cleanser, toner, moisturizer and seven unique formulas to target the skin’s special needs.
“The triangular bottle links products together and saves space,” said Ms. Pflueger. “It is unique—it comes apart and refills. There is a test tube insert, also triangular-shaped, with a disk cap for travel, called the Go-go.”

The Go-go portable is a removable inner, squeezable tube that is sold either with the Homebody or as a separate refill. This enables English Ideas’ skin care units to accompany consumers during travel, work or sports.

In early July, the company launched Homebody skin care at select Sephora and Dillards stores to test its mechanics. More than a thousand were sold without testers available.
“The packaging is very impressive, a very different look for English Ideas,” said Ms. Pflueger. “We were Chanel-like with our matte gold and black products. Now we use frosted glass and silver. It looks younger and more hip and people are drawn to that. Homebody looks like a piece of art.”
Homebody is the company’s first custom-made piece. The company usually makes twists on other stock items with embossing or color.

“Color is very important when dealing with packaging. People are drawn to it, automatically,” said Ms. Pflueger. A year ago English Ideas launched Lip Hi-Lites, a powdered lip-gloss for the lips, cheeks and eyes in an innovative monomatic tin. The foam tip applicator is placed on a spring inside the cap. To apply, customers unscrew the foam applicator and twist the cap several times to absorb Lip Hi-Lites.
blooming down under In addition to catchy packages, quality is one of the main concerns of Australian native Natalie Bloom, who launched her eponymous brand in 1993.

Quality and light-hearted packaging boost Bloom’s success.

“I think packaging is what draws consumers to a shelf and then the product has to be of premium quality to gain loyalty,” said Ms. Bloom. Ms. Bloom, a graphic designer by trade, has always paid special attention to packaging.

“The packaging style is quirky and light-hearted,” said Ms. Bloom. “I have tried to use a lot of color to make a point of difference in stores and to give the products a fresher feel. Illustration also attracts the consumer.” Ms. Bloom said mechanical containers are “in” for color cosmetics, especially those that make a loud “click” when the packaging closes. Bloom packaging is outsourced from suppliers all around the world and is continuously updated and improved.

“I am always on the look out for fun, exciting packaging. I love our latest lip lacquers, which I sourced from Japan. The mechanical pen container is so intricate and fun to use,” said Ms. Bloom. Any product that looks too futuristic is out in Ms. Bloom’s opinion. Since August, Bloom has been launching several new products that follow Bloom’s traditional style of design. The company is launching eye definers, brow definers, eye crayons and eyeshadows in addition to new lip-gloss colors, mini nail polish gift sets, soaps, a cosmetics bag and a lip brush and gift boxes for the holidays.

metal mania
A rose by any other name would not smell as sweet. The creators of Co Bigleow’s Alchemy decided that their line is all about names and colors that represent these names. “The names, especially our liquid foundation (liquid diffusion), are essential in telling our story,” explained Sandra Mustion-Lemmerman, co-creator of Alchemy cosmetics. “We are chemical-based. Products need to be called something different to draw customers to our products.”

Originally, Co Bigelow had a vision that it could create a makeup line based on science, so Alchemy was founded in 1998 with 30 nail polishes that were expanded to include same name foundations, eyeshadows, lip colors, blushes and mascaras.

Tony&Tina introduced herbal eye refiner in a Paul Rand -inspired package this fall.

“We corresponded colors where we could. It made it easy for the customers to mix and match and improve their confidence. The names were homeopathy-based like our homeopathic pharmacy,” said Ms. Mustion-Lemmerman.

Today, Alchemy offers two lines: Refreshing and Medic. The refreshing line has helping and healing cosmetic tools that use herbal extracts to give a sense of well being. The Medic line has healing products to repair blemishes and lip problems.

Alchemy has always been identified by its black packaging. In spring 2001, however, the color will change to copper. The idea came from researching alchemist archives and seeing little copper weights alchemists used for measurement, according to Jerome Berard, principal and creative director of Berard Associates, a firm chosen to design Alchemy’s new containers.

“Black was great, but it doesn’t convey Alchemy,” said Ms. Mustion-Lemmerman. “The copper tells the story of who we are—a chemical company that uses metals. There are also accents of matte silver throughout the line. Marrying the two metals confirms our identity of Alchemical beginnings.”

The most important part of the design was defining an element, according to Mr. Gerard. Once photographed, the company hopes the color will establish a strong brand visual that people will recognize.

In addition to establishing identity, indie products need to be unique, according to Ms. Mustion-Lemmerman. They also should use added features such as correct applicators and accessories. And as the customer browses the shelves, containers need to tell a story at first glance.

Homebody skin care, by English Ideas, introduces eye-catching packaging for easy travel.

“No one wants to read an anthology. Customers are smart; they’ve seen it all. We knew we needed to offer something different with both color benefit and another twist, be it healing skin care or tools to ease makeup application,” said Ms. Mustion-Lemmerman.

Rule No. 1 for independent cosmetic companies is distinction. In addition to brand uniqueness, though, companies have begun to reposition themselves with quality merchandise. “If companies position themselves through quality, packaging will follow. Quality is already improving across the board. This is an opportunity to reposition the brand and develop something unique. It fits together and consumers get it. As long as customers do that, business will be more interesting, there will be a focus on quality and companies will be willing to take packaging risks,” said Mr. Berard of Berard and Associates.

In the end, quality will help indies gain footing in the cosmetic world with their unique facades and continue to attract women of all ages.